Update

No blogging recently as conditions have frankly been dire. The Foehn wind has blown in, bringing in warm and wet weather, with rain in town for most of the last 5 days. Les Houches was ok but murky on friday and GM good yesterday, but it is now wet again and today is looking like a dry tooling day. Or drinking.

Bellin Couloir, Brevent

Looking down the Couloir from near the top

Emma demonstrating faultless, immaculate, perfect technique. Obviously.

Emma with the top of the Couloir behind

With a bit of time off in the middle of a work day we decided to go and ski the ENSA couloir on the Brevent, but bad vis and cornices put us off once we got to the top of the cable car. A quick look in the book revealed the Bellin Couloir nearby so we went and had a look. With really easy access (traverse under the Brevent rock face and you arrive in the Couloir where the summer rock rock "Frison Roche" starts) it is a nice line and well worth knowing about. We found very icy conditions near the top, and very heavy snow near the bottom, but some nice stuff in the middle.

The top is a solid 40 degrees and I reckonned it was maybe fall and die territory given the ice, but Carl fell over right at the top and managed not to die, so what do I know. The rest is maybe 30 degrees ish, and would be brilliant under powder. See you there after next snowfall!

Lillaz Gully

Abs getting to grips with her first "Scottish"route

Looking down from the lead on the M4 pitch

With Abs keen to climb and me keen to double check my arms still worked after all this skiing, we decided on a day out in Cogne. Damien and Greg came along too and tried to shame me into climbing something really hard, but they failed and so Abs and I climbed the Lillaz Gully (II,4,M4).

The route consists of a few steepish steps of ice and some snow plodding, and then a pitch of M4 at the end. This pitch is the undoubted highlight - ever decreasing amounts of ice leading to a brief section of bare rock, and then back onto a final 10 metres of easy ice. Really interesting climbing and with 2 pegs just where you want them.

The route is in really good nick right now but is completely hooked out - most of the footholds are big enough to take half your boot - so it isn't too challenging. That said, the sun was shining and although easy, the climbing is really nice, so we had a superb day. The lads meanwhile shamed us by climbing Repentance (5+/6) and said it was brittle ice but well hooked. 

Still plenty of good routes left in Cogne, so with continued unsettled weather on the way it will be a good option this week.

Keen for a day of exploring, touring and steep skiing, Alison and I decided (somewhat randomly!!) to head over to Chatel, and try to ski Mont de Granges. A combination of staying in bed too long, heavy traffic and a long lift queue meant that we didn't start skinning until midday, but with only 850 metres height to gain we weren't too worried.

The snow was pretty loose in places and the visibility was pretty poor so we decided about 3 that we weren't going to go to the summit, and we definitely weren't going to ski the Pertuis Couloir on the north west face like  we'd hoped. With 100 metres of 50 degrees followed by 400 metres of 45 degrees it didn't seem like the place to be in bad vis and dodgy snow! 

Slightly disappointed we ended up dropping off the West ridge which we'd climbed, and skiied a really nice powdery face. So we didn't manage the Pertuis but managed some skinning, amazing powder skiing and saw a beautiful new area - can't be bad!

Best laid plans and all that

Distinctly off piste at Le Tour

Tom's usual cautious skiing!

With a forecast of a decent morning and poor afternoon, Tom and I had plans of heading across to the Helbronner over in Italy and having a look at the Aiguille de Toule and the Toula Glacier. Waking up to find it raining wasn't part of the plan though, and so we switched to a lazy morning then a cruise up to Le Tour.

Hoping we might find some good visibility in the trees we opted for skiing the Vallorcine side, and although there were patches of nice snow, most of it was so heavy and wet that turning was all but impossible (for me anyway). Suitably disappointed we got the train back to Cham and noticed that it was suddenly snowing pretty hard, so we went up for a run off the Plan de L'Aiguille. As ever it didn't disappoint - superb, deep powder all the way, albeit with pretty bad vis.

Also, there were a few pretty dodgy bits of loose and slabby snow, and it seemed worst on eastern aspects, and every single gully on the track leading back into town was full of recent avalanche debris, so choose your lines carefully. If you manage that it will be epic tomorrow.

Aiguillette des Houches

Keen for a steadier day today we took the Brevent lift and skinned across the Aiguillette des Houches. Getting across to the peak is pretty amazing - there is a huge amount of good terrain in that area, and very little traffic. The skin up to the peak itself is pretty brief - less than an hour - but there are loads of other good looking slopes to go at.

From the summit the snow was pretty cruddy but good fun, and we finished with a long ski down the summer walking track all the way to Les Houches train station. I wouldn't be able to describe where we went, suffice to say it was fast, narrow and hilarious skiing!

Tour Ronde Climb and Ski

The North Face

Keen for a good climb/ski combo, Tom and I headed up to the Tour Ronde after catching the first midi bin. The classic north face route looked good from below so we shot over and after an amazing effort from Tom to cross a very powdery bergshrund we got onto the lower icefield and so began the epic.

The lower snow field is currently deep powder snow - tiring, time consuming and a bit scary. We eventually made it onto the crux and found it in pretty good nick, nice neve with the odd bit of brittle ice about as well. Once off the crux and onto the top snowfield we then got some more soft snow, then some nice neve and finally some hard, black ice.

We moved together on the entire route, often with no gear between us on the easier sections, but progress was still slow, and by the time we'd got off the summit darkness was apparoaching. Having done the descent in summer  I was confident I could get off, but the descent couloir had less snow in it than it did in June! We managed to sideslip and ski most of it, albeit with a brief down climb and 2 abs (one wearing skis), and then finished off with a vallee blanche in the dark. Bit tired back down in town but nothing a greasy burger and chips couldn't sort out!

Overall the route isn't in now, but you can tell that if in condition it would be excellent and quick - definitely doable in a day off the first midi lift, and later in the season the ski off will be nice too.

Cosmiques Couloir

View from the Midi

First turns in the Couloir

Say no more.

Tom showing me how it's done!

With an unreliable forecast for 30% susnhine we took a chance and headed up the midi, hoping to do the uber classic Cosmiques Couloir. It was soon obvious that the gamble had paid off as we found ourselves above the cloud with perfect, warm weather.

We did 3 x 30 metre abs to get into the couloir, and then found it in pretty good nick. The snow varied from powder to crust and to corn, often within a couple of metres, but there was no ice to speak of so it all felt pretty ok. The book of death gives it "Difficile, 45 degrees", and although it is steep, the couloir is pretty wide and doesn't feel too intimidating. We stuck left and then cut back right for the exit in an attempt to avoid any windslab, and it all felt pretty solid.

Having got down the couloir we had a bit of a walk/pole/sidestep across to the old midi mid station, and found quite a lot of dodgy snow. A few slabs had avalanched, and the whole slope generally felt pretty unnerving, so we were relieved to get on to the customary perfect powder once we got near the Plan de L'Aiguille.

From there it was great snow, initially in nice trees, then in pretty thick trees, then in a jungle, but it seemed like a small price to pay for such an awesome descent.

After a few cups of tea we headed up for a final lap off the Plan de L'Aiguille and (obviously!) got great snow, and some really steep stuff, most of which Tom jumped over and I side slipped. Need some big skis...and ability.

Grand Montets and more Chatelard

John on Pitch 1 of le Pesseus

Couple of great days out with John recently. First up was another trip to Chatelard, where we climbed Le Pesseus, II,3 during a few hours off from work in the middle of the day. The first picth is steep right now, about 4 ish, and the second easy but delicate ice mushrooms. Great route though and ideal for a quick hit if you've got a few hours spare.

Today we headed to a very foggy and snowy Grand Montets for some superb tree skiing and coffee drinking. We stuck to the trees due to bad vis and found some awesome snow.Loving it.

Vallee Blanche Conditions

Nipped up the Midi today with the vague plan of doing the Valeria or Chippendale Gully on the Petit Capucin. As it turned out conditions were not overly friendly and Peter not overly keen on fighting them when there was powder to be had.

Anyway, we headed down an incredibly cold arete (the only part of me exposed was my nose and by the bottom of the Arete it had a millimetre of ice on it and it took 5 minutes of rubbing to get anything like feeling back in it) and then broke trail through heavy, crusty snow all the way to the Requin Hut in freezing temperatures. Apparently it was minus 55 including windchill up Grand Montets!!! After that there was plenty of good snow, and even better snow on our lap off the Plan de L'Aiguille.

As for conditions up top, things are finally looking up. The Chippendale and Valeria looked ok from a distance, and the Gabarrou, Modica, Lafaille etc. are all beginning to thicken up a bit. Forecast is once again rubbish (will the sun ever shine this winter?!?!) but things are beginning to look up on the alpinism front. Here's hoping.

Chatelard Ice

With a distinctly rubbish forecast we decided to head up to Chatelard, just over the Swiss border. We headed up towards the Frigor sector and although it took a bit of finding we eventually got to the routes and found them all in pretty stiff condition. Frigor looked very steep and thin for a 4, and the 2 grade 3s were both pretty thin. Nevertheless Johnny and Nick headed up the furthest right of the Grade 3s (sorry, I don't have the guidebook) and Peter and I wimped out and took photos before retiring from the wind and cold and went for a beer. It's a hard life.

Plan de L'Aiguille skiing

Emma ripping it up (dude)

Yet another powder day yesterday (Peter's 7th in a row!) proving that there is plenty out there for those willing to look. I have been sworn to secrecy regarding our exact location (which admittedly defies the point of a conditions blog), but suffice to say that those with skins and willingness to put in 30 minutes effort off the Midi mid station will have powder all winter....

Col de La Buche

Hardcore side slipping! Taken from the Col looking into the descent couloir.

Line of ascent from the Nantillons glacier to the col de la buche.

Rock climbing made easy!

Nearing the col after a long slog in crampons

Peter near the bottom of the Couloir

The Descent Route


After 36 hours of eating, some exercise was needed so Peter and I headed up to the Plan de L'Aiguille and skinned across to the foot of the Nantillons Glacier and climbed up to the Col de La Buche, between the Petit Charmoz and L'Aiguille de L'M. A team had gone to the very bottom of the Nantillons icefall but it was still very grey looking so nothing doing up there yet.


Anyway, having climbed the ladders at the bottom of the Couloir we cramponned up to the Col in fairly unpleasant and sugary snow (whoever put the track in is welcome to a beer in Chambre Neuf courtesy of me). From the top the initial drop in is over 50 degrees but with soft snow we side slipped it without too much trouble.

The Mont Blanc ski descents guidebook ("The Book of Death") gives the descent AD+, 40 to 50 degrees, which is currently about right, and you don't need to ab at any stage, which it mentions as a possibility in the book. That said, a fall wouldn't be great even with the perfect powder we found.

After getting out of the couloir we headed skiiers right until under the North face of the Grand Charmoz and then tried to go skiiers left and find the exit couloir talked about in the book. After 2 attempts and 3 hours of utter fannying around we gave up and skinned back up to go and find the ladders going down from the Envers hut. To find these you basically pass under the Glacier de La Thendia and ski down staying just left of the rock band which leads to the Envers hut. You then see the odd tree - keep going from tree to tree and the ladders start at the 4th tree you get to. Great tour but don't bother trying to find the sneaky way out, it doesn't seem to exist even when viewed from below, just take the snowed up ladders and ab in between them (we had 2 x 30 metre ropes and it was fine) if the snow is dodgy. Enjoy.

Vallee Blanche Conditions

With a couple of hours free in the middle of a work day, Peter and I headed up the midi for a look at conditions. As far as climbing goes thigs looked quite grim - the gabarrou albinoni looked very thin indeed, as did the Modica Noury. The Lafaille gully isn't formed yet, and there is basically not a huge amount in. That said, Supercouloir is rumoured to currently be excellent, and I met someone who did "Pinnochio" on the Tacul a few days ago, but other than that it is still not quite there yet.

As for the Vallee Blanche - epic powder everywhere and no-one skiing it. The run is still quite open so you need your wits about you, but there was incredible snow from the midi right down to the flat section at the bottom of the Geant icefall, so a great few hours for the adventurous skiiers out there.

Pointe Ronde

POWDER!
POWDER!

POWDER!

On top - Matterhorn behind.

Earning the powder descent.

Immense day out in Switzerland with Rory and Josie today, where we skinned from the Col de la Forclaz up to the Pointe Ronde (2700m). The promised blue sky day failed to materialise but with 1400 metres to climb it was probably a good thing that it wasn't too hot. We took about 4 hours to get up, via the Chalet de Giete, and then had an absolutely unbelievable descent.

We started out with some gentle slopes with perfect light powder and then headed onto the face part of the descent and the powder just kept coming at up to 40 degrees. Finished off with yet more powder through the trees and a dart along the path back to the car. Do this tour!!!!!

Grand and Col des Montets

Me heading up the vertical section of La Colonne (I,4)
Peter running away from MiniCouloir!

Bit of an all over the place day with Peter today, but despite not really finding anything great to do, conditions were perfect for banter, so a good day was had. We started off up Grand Montets, optimistically hoping to find a route in condition off the top station. However, the whole of the Grand Montets ridge was basically rock, covered in a dusting of powder so the Frendo Ravanel, Claire Chazal etc. are all out.

Undeterred we skiied down in some superb powder (but amongst some very big and open crevasses) and headed to Trient for some ice. Having got to the Col Des Montets we noticed there was plenty of ice so went for a look at MiniCouloir (rotten snow on the approach made it unjutifiably dangerous) and then settled for La Colonne (I,4, 50m).

Great little route but after a full day, a short vertical step of ice wasn't much to show for it! Still, learnt that nothing is in on the GM ridge, the skiing is great but open up top, and Col Des Montets is good a for a relaxing day on the ice.

Brevent is actually quite good!

There are worse places to live.

Abs spoiling an otherwise great view of Mont Blanc!!!

Having somewhat written off Brevent as a south facing nightmare of slush, I was pleasantly surprised today when I teamed up with Abs (the one from Mountain Drop Offs as opposed to

the one from 90's boyband 5ive) for a couple of hours. The snow is really good quality and although the easily accesible off piste is all skiied out, there is plenty for those with "the knowledge" and some good steep moguls and fast pistes for the rest of us. Also, if there is a view in the World better than the one from Brevent, I'm yet to see it.

Cham skiing - Pas de Chevre

A tired powder hound!

Start of the Pas de Chevre. Say no more.

Me and Josie's shadow.

Great days skiing with Josie today. We started out at Flegere but the snow was pretty rubbish so we headed over to Grand Montets. A blast off the Herse was disapppointing due to heavy, chopped up snow, so we retired for lunch and considered our options.

In the end we headed up the recently opened top lift and then decided on the spur of the moment to do the classic Pas de Chevre descent to the Mer de Glace. The top provided great powder for turn after turn, and the combat skiing at the bottom was quite fun with it being the start of the season. We even managed to ski down the James Bond track all the way to town and found it with plenty of snow. The whole route could do with a bit more snow coverage though as I collected enough rocks to build a house....so use someone else's skis.

Cogne Update

Pitch 4 on Chandelle Levure

He even walks round town like this! Ice climbing athlete and international businessman Nick Jennings.



Looking down pitch 4 of Cascade de Lillaz

Johnny trying not to look pumped emerging off the ciger of Chandelle Levur.

Just had 2 superb days in Cogne with Nick and Johnny - too much snow, too much wine (though not enough for Johnny) and excellent banter.

The avalanche risk is pretty high right now but the rive gauche in Valleille was said to be ok so we headed up and did the Chandelle Levure (II, 4+). Nick's usual frantic start saw us start the route at 11am, and by the time we had done the 4th pitch it was snowing heavily and there were avalanches crashing everywhere on the other side of the valley so we bailed. Anyway, the pitches we did were in good nick, albeit with some brittle ice on the 4th pitch (roughly grade 4).

Teams out on Tuborg and Coyote just nearby as well. Unfortunately 3 Dutch lads were avalanched just over the ridge from us in Valnontey, and 1 later died, condolences to their friends and family.

With even more snow today we settled for a romp up the uber classic Cascade de Lillaz (II,3). Being safe from avalanches, the route was even more popular than usual but in good nick and good fun.

When we got back to down everyone was telling us not to climb any couloirs tomorrow and everyone seems to be in a high state of understandable paranoia. I personally wouldn't climb in Cogne for now due to avalanche risk but those with better local knowledge may know some safe spots. Have fun and stay safe.

Bags of snow here in Cham right now, following a massive fall overnight on monday.

Grand Montets apparently remains good but south facing Flegere and Brevent are already cruddy according to Carl.

Off to Cogne tomorrow, where the OHM reckon there is plenty in. We'll see...