Headed up the Midi with John the other day and did the Chippendale Gully (IV,4, 300m) on the Petit Capucin. We had originally planned to do the Valeria but with the amount of ice flying down we made use of John's local knowledge and switched routes after the first pitch.
Me heading up the second pitch of the Chippendale Gully
The route is in pretty good nick right now, and the second pitch in particular has some superb steep neve, but the middle snow slope is pretty cruddy.
Finishing the last pitch
The top 2 pitches are probably the hardest right now due to a distinct lack of neve, but overall definitely worth doing.